There are few locations in the World with the quality of golf, scenery and history as South Western Scotland.
We arrived in Glasgow around noon on a typical overcast and cool Scottish day. We had arranged transportation from the airport to Trump Turnberry Resort about 1 hour away. As soon as we arrived you could sense the history of this cherished property.
There where pictures throughout the halls highlighting the many epic rounds of golf played here, from the famed Watson, Nicklaus Dual in the Sun, to Tom Watson’s near brush with history when he lost the Open by 1 putt on the 72nd hole, at the unparalleled age of 59.
Day One – King Robert the Bruce
Fortunately the sun does not set here until late into the evening which meant we could begin our first round of golf at 4:30 that afternoon on the newer King Robert the Bruce Course. Unfortunately the West Coast winds where about to bring in a prototypical Scottish storm complete with driving rain and high winds. As we began the back nine along the coast even our local caddies where beginning to question the wisdom of our desire to play, at one point referring to the weather as “mental”.
Despite the weather, the scenery was nothing less than spectacular and this was just the “second” course. It is clear that the Trump organization has done wonders with the property, upgrading not only the Championship Course, but also making the new Donald Steel Course a Top 500 Links as well. Our Caddies pointed out the many changes already made along with some future plans, most designed to bring the coastline more into play on many of the holes. Hopefully we will come again on a warmer, sunnier day so we can appreciate the many vistas along with the wonderful course architecture.
Once we finally finished, our caddies did not run off to escape the rain but offered to take our clubs and keep them overnight in a special drying room so that they would be ready for our next round in the morning on the Championship, Alilsia course. If this was the “second” course, we could not wait for tomorrow.
Day Two – Ailsa
Morning came early after a long day of travel and an evening of golf in the driving rain. It began as another cool and rainy day as we sat in the restaurant and enjoyed the view. Our tee time was not until late morning so we held out hope that the clouds would clear.
By the time we headed over to the pro shop to check the condition of our clubs the rain had stopped and it was warming up, still no Sun to be found. We had some extra time so we spent 20 minutes looking at the different displays in the Pro shop lobby which included a replica of the Claret Jug along with dozens of pictures and artifacts from the various Open Championships played on this famous course.
When we arrived at the first tee we where met with the same caddies that spent 4 hours in the driving rain with us yesterday. We where happy to see them as they had been gracious and invaluable guides, but equally as shocked that we had not scared them off the previous rain soaked evening.
It did not take long for the Ailsa course to show itself. As we walked to the first green we caught our first glimpse of the Irish Sea and Ailsa Craig just beyond the third green and fourth tee.
This would be the first awe inspiring moment as the vistas and beauty of the course would continue uninterrupted for the next few hours. As you step on the fourth tee the famous lighthouse appears on the horizon as you begin the 2 hour journey along the Irish Sea towards the iconic beacon calling out in the distance. At times you forget that you are on one of the worlds finest tests of golf as you simply enjoy the beauty, but are quickly reminded of where you are as your ball misses the fairway and rolls into a natural waste area or a spectacular greenside bunker. Each hole appears more spectacular than the last culminating in the walk from the 8th green to 9th tee.
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Our caddies insisted that we make the trek to the “Pro” tee box and as we made the turn around the final dune, the lighthouse appeared right in front of us on the other side of a huge drop off that most amateur golfers could never clear at a 225yd plus carry. They quickly pointed out that there are tee boxes for us mere mortals a little further on but would not let us leave until one of them had taken the obligatory picture of us with the Lighthouse in the background. Once you sink your putt on 9 you head toward what is undoubtedly the most spectacular half way house in the world.
Once you grab your half way refreshments you head over to the 10th tee with a sense that you have now seen the best that golf has to offer. As you reach your appointed tee block and stare down at this newly renovated fairway you realize you where wrong. Laid out in front of you is a spectacular par 5 with elevated tees opening to a generous fairway guarded by the Sea on your left and waist deep fescue and gorse on the right. While you may be tempted to go for the green in 2, you are confronted with a spectacular “doughnut” bunker strategically located just before the climb up to a raised green which appears to be guarded by the Sea on 3 sides. Once you arrive on the 10th green you can not help but take in the incredible 360 Vista encompassing a view of the entire property inclusive of the RAF memorial, iconic Lighthouse and Ailsa Craig.
The final hole along the coast is the recently renovated 11th hole, another spectacular par 3 with an undulating green perched next to multiple drops into the sea.
The final 7 holes, while not as visually stunning as the past 8, are none the less spectacular golf holes. It is almost like the architect wanted to give you an hour or so to focus on your golf game again before you head to the 19th hole to relive the past 4 hrs over a cold beverage. Many of these final holes demand your attention, like the par 5 14th with it’s long twisty uphill fairway guarded on both sides by more fescue and gorse all the way to a very trickey elevated green, and the updated 16th hole that demands a precise approach shot to avoid the many hazards surrounding a tricky, undulating green.
As you stand on the 18th tee you are once again reminded of the history of Turnberry and the fact that 2 of the greatest moments in golf history occurred on the putting green that you are about to approach. This memory along with the realization that you are about to complete one of the most memorable rounds of golf you will ever play, make this walk a special one. Hopefully you have maintained your concentration because if you stray off of the fairway your ball is bound to find one of the many sand traps lining both sides of the fairway.
Fortunately once you make it to the green is is one of the more forgiving of the day
